The shape of Javert's character felt squared/grounded; while Valjean's felt off balance, like an inverted triangle, directionless; but reaching upward.
We wanted our leads to be physically matched but a height discrepancy was a challenge.
For Valjean, we used full pants, layered vests, coats, capes, and a repetition of V-shaped necklines to triangulate his torso.
For Javert, we used a monochromatic palette, shoulder pads, epaulettes, and heeled boots to enlarge him; making him squarer.
I selected a crinkled muslin for the workhouse caps and aprons and had these fabricated. For the Revolutionary Ensemble, we tea-stained then spray-dyed costumes with brick, ash, and deep green tones.